Ongoing Progress

Leaping into 2008 or the last day of February.... The new bottom piece, new rear transom and new sponson transom are finally in place. The new wood only required 273 stainless steel screws to attach everything. That is 273 drill holes, 273 counter sinks, and 273 applications of wood filler. And then sanding - re-filling a second coat of filler. Just imagine how many more for the two sponsons and deck.. NO DON'T.... About half of those screws had to be taken out and the counter sink holes drilled a little deeper because the screws were still above the wood and showed. That is a no no.. Has to look perfect un-like a wood butcher would want it... LOL

 

The photo labeled before (is before the screws were attached and before I satin polished the strut). The photo labeled after (is all the screws attached, and the wood filler sanded and the strut satin polished).

 

At the rear on the bottom, it may look like the screw holes are not equal, but there are four water drain holes in the back of the transom and I didn't want a screw protruding into the drain hole where the drain plug is attached for a race.

 

One picture is of the seam between the old bottom and the new bottom. Another is the repair up front where there was a little dry rot in the corner of the bottom.

 

http://bolamfamily.0catch.com/BEP_Express_Progress.html Progress Website if you missed some previous photos.

 

This week I received a wonderful picture from a 1948 outboard race on Lake 
Coeur d'Alene. It was a black and white photo that was hand oil painted by Ray Johnson, from relative of Kathy's side of the family. The hill in the back ground is 
Tubbs Hill.

 

The colors painted were not necessarily the color that day, but the artist used his artistic liberty. Many, many hours were spent painting the trees, water, hillside, boats.... labor intensive to say the least.

 

Patrick, can you tell which class the boats maybe?

 

Thank you Doug for passing on a family treasure to someone who will appreciate it greatly.

 

The new rear transom and sponson transom have been installed. The new bottom section is now installed. The center section is one piece of 6mm Okoume, then another piece of 6mm Okoume was cut and placed over that. The center section has to support the shaft strut. That is why it is 12mm thick. Del and I figured how to cut the piece of wood that has more angles and dangles then a trapezoid. Fits like a glove. Thx Del

 

Today I puttied the screw holes after gluing it yesterday.

 

The sponsons are getting some more leveling wood. I will be finishing up the leveling of the sponsons this coming week. Also I want to make the paper pattern for the full length airtrap covers. They will 18' long and 6mm Okoume. The intent is to make the air traps look good again and to strengthen them from years of all out racing.

 

Today I got brave and drilled the four holes in the new transom for the new rudder. worked great - expect I may have to add some shims between the transom and rudder bracket. When the rudder bracket is not on the boat, the pivots freely. When I tighten the four bolts, the rubber stiffens some. It may or may not be an issue. I will know better after I get the steering cables installed. If it is still stiff. I will work on it (unless I hear back from other people who know more then I do). It isn't jamming, just stiffer when you rotate it back and forth.

 

Attached are pictures of the rudder and skid fin with there new upholstered covers. The new cockpit cover will not be fit until I have repaired the cowling.

 

The new bottom has been sanded and sanded and sanded for a good fit. I also pencil marked the screw holes. Maybe tomorrow I will drill the holes, then glue and screw the new bottom on.

 

The gap between the new and old bottom pieces is 1/16" or less. I hope that is close enough and that the glue as a gap filler will be okay (feed back???).

 

Today when I put the skid fin on, I came up with what I hope is a good idea. I alternated the six bolt and nuts. My theory is that if we should loosen a bolt of loose one for some reason, alternating the installation should pick up load. Don't know if it really matters, but it sounded good in theory.

 

I haven't sanded the very back edge of the bottom yet. I'm waiting until everything is glued in place, then I sand it to an even overlap.

 

Today my friend Del came over to visit and play. Together he and I made the first cut on the last piece of the bottom. I still have to hand fit the edges (cut it fat and sand it correct is our NEW motto). What is interesting about this piece of wood is: the front edge is 50 3/8" wide. The back edge is 48 3/16" wide. Each side edge have a 30 degree bevel. 

 

The very front of the airtrap is 52" wide and it narrows from the front to the back to the 48 3/16" width. Compress the air and helps lift the rear to keep the nose level. Ingenious. The whole bottom was designed to gently control the air flow. Ingenious - I know I already said that, but it impressed me a bunch.

 

In the pictures I hope you can see the angles. It was a mental challenge. Sure glad Del brought his chain saw over... LOL

 

Maybe tomorrow I have the edges done and maybe the preliminary screw holes marked and maybe even drilled.

 

We were so excited that we only had to cut this piece once. The chances of making an oops was huge. It is so nice to have another person to help and figure out the right way to do it. Thanks Del, that was great.

 

I set the shaft strut on to see how it looks. It will be a while before the shaft hole is cut and the strut is drilled (after I polish it) and bolted to the bottom.

 

Look at the SIRA website below: 

Recognize the boat????? 

What an honor (unless it get's changed, our boat is featured on the front page).

 

http://www.apbanw.com/Clubs/SIRA.htm

 

2-15-2008 2:18 PM   Center Section

The center section of the bottom's glue is drying. I'm using a Montana railroad tie to weigh down the front seam. Kathy's grandfather gave us two pieces of railroad ties yrs ago. They have been wonderful weights when needed and here we are using them again.

 

Also in the pictures is the heater Brian (our son) gave me. It works pretty well to heat the area that I'm currently working on. Yesterday I used the one Kathy gave me for my b-day. I was working at the other end of the boat. The wood behind the heater is the next piece of the bottom. That will take quite a while to shape it exactly correct. The first initial cut has been made and that is a good start.

 

Another picture are the drain plugs. The boat hasn't taken on ONE drop of water since I put them in.... COOOL!!!!!!!! Actually I had to drill the holes for the plugs and I wanted to make sure they were correct. Originally there were six drain holes in the boat and with the new wood, I had to drill five of those again. Great Grandfather's hand auger bit and hand drill worked supper. Very accurate and a clean smooth hole.